François Perret - An Everyday Artist | Pastry1 Magazine

Text by Gilbert Pytel, photographs © Bernhard Winkelmann

In the spotlight

honoring a newsworthy chef

In 2020, at the request of video platform Netflix, François Perret took part in a series "The Chef in a Truck" where he took over a food truck in Los Angeles. "The idea came from Eric Nebot, a loyal hotel guest, but also a cinephile and savvy producer who made his mark in Hollywood. He suggested I join a food truck for a fortnight and reinterpret American recipes in the style of classic French pastry. This series put me completely out my comfort zone and took me into a different world. This challenge was all the more interesting as I don't speak English and didn't know this region at all. As the filming went on for long periods, I ended up completely forgetting that the cameras were there. In any case, I loved the idea of getting reactions from ordinary American consumers who were unfamiliar with our culture specific sweetness. Unlike at the Ritz, I had the customers right in front of me and could see exactly how they felt.

The most reassuring thing was to realize that they were able to appreciate my products, and that borders definitely didn't exist in the world of gourmet food. Personally, this experience has enabled me to challenge myself and has broadened my horizons even more.” Now broadcast by France 5, this series will soon be getting a second season, given its success around the world.

My greatest reward is having left a sweet imprint on the Ritz

"I really don't feel that this documentary has changed the way I am. At 42 years old, I also think I have the maturity and hindsight required not to try and be something I’m not. The ultimate goal of our profession is above all to share your passion with others. It's true that this series has put my work in the spotlight. This notoriety has given us a wonderful boost in pastry-making, enabling us to sell more and more cakes. The success of our sweet range has given me the greatest freedom, that of being able to fully express my creativity. We now need to keep creating new products and not stop working towards this goal. On a day-to-day basis, all I try to do is please my customers, make sure they're happy with the products they eat and make them want to come back as soon as possible. I'm also well aware that this could all be over tomorrow and that no one is irreplaceable. In fact, it's more than likely that I won't be the last pastry chef to work at the Ritz (laughs).”

For a long time, most of François Perret's creations didn't reach the masses, but that changed in June 2021 with the creation of Le Comptoir du Ritz, an elegant boutique attached to the hotel, offering pastries, tarts and a small savory range. The company's customer base has grown considerably, attracting food lovers from all over the world: "I'm very happy to already have been able to implement a range of signature madeleines with a melting center. I also offer my version of patisserie, with treats that are playful, joyful, light and generous. Today, my greatest reward is having left a sweet imprint on the Ritz. My teams and I have poured our hearts and souls into this place, and I'm proud to have left my mark on its history. For 125 years, the focus has been on hotels and restaurants. These days, the establishment's patisserie has earned its stripes, and I think it will continue to do so in the future.”

It's up to us to make good on our promise of good taste with good produce

Although François Perret's Instagram account already has 350,000 followers, he's still a long way from some other pastry chefs like Cédric Grolet or Amaury Guichon. This isn’t something that seems to worry the chef: "In 2023, it's essential to make use of digital tools. They are a means of communication that shouldn't be either neglected or overestimated. This allows me to distribute some of my creations more widely. I want as many people as possible to come and eat my cakes. There are people who come to one of the hotel outlets or to the counter on a regular basis, specifically to taste what I make. As for me, I like to manage my various social networks on my own, without anyone else involved. I also keep things professional. If Instagram can help attract new food lovers through beautiful visuals, then it's up to us to make good on our promise of good taste with good produce."