IN THE EARLY 90S, CHRISTOPHE FELDER FOUND HIMSELF IN THE MEDIA SPOTLIGHT ALONGSIDE PASTRY CHEFS SUCH AS PIERRE HERMÉ AND PHILIPPE CONTICINI. IN 2012, CHRISTOPHE FELDER AND CAMILLE LESECQ FOUNDED LES PÂTISSIERS, IN MUTZIG, ALSACE. YET THIS HARDWORKING ENTHUSIAST HAS ALWAYS REMAINED A LITTLE REMOVED FROM THE MEDIA HUSTLE AND BUSTLE.
Text by Gilbert Pytel (Featured in the January 2025 issue of Pastry1 Magazine)
Christophe Felder: "When I arrived at the Crillon at the age of 23, I decided to restructure the dessert offering, changing the way they were served: I did away with the dessert cart and implemented plated desserts. I wanted to work with extra-fresh produce, made that morning and served throughout the day. The desserts had to be impeccable, and I made it a rule not to "reuse" anything in the evening – everything was made from scratch. There were only eight of us in the pastry kitchen, and we worked every day from 9 a.m. to 1 a.m. Our work was soon noticed by those in the industry and other chefs. Media-wise, people started noticing me a few years after I started out. I was known by some journalists for my range of desserts, which led to some very good word-of-mouth. In those days, luxury hotels were more about cuisine than pastry. Visually, our cakes were understated, chic and pretty. I've had articles in the daily and weekly press, including Le Monde, Le Figaro, Paris Match, Gala and Le Parisien.
Soon, I was also being invited to take part in TV shows such as Télématin on France 2, Coucou c'est nous on TF1, as well as featuring in news reports. Radio stations wanted to get involved too, such as RTL and Europe 1. For instance, I remember Vanessa Paradis getting me to talk about my vanilla cream on air in 1995, which she loved. As for me, I've never sought media coverage even though I was delighted that people were interested in my work and that of my team members. As I'm a fairly discreet person, I've always been careful not to show off too much. I believe this also stems from my upbringing, as my father always told me to avoid making a spectacle of myself . It has to be said that, initially, I only intended to stay in the capital for a while before opening my own boutique in my native region. Things didn't turn out that way, as I kept my position at the Crillon for 15 years."
CF: "In fact, I was even on the cover of US Vogue with fashion designer Sonia Rykiel. She was a regular customer at the Crillon who loved our dark chocolate cream. There were also several American and Italian TV channels who came to film the desserts."
How is your relationship with journalists in general?
CF: "They are often very pleasant and some of them have even become close friends. Although I've always respected the work of professional journalists, I've insisted on keeping some distance from the media."
In 2012, you were one of the first pastry chefs to appear on Masterchef, a culinary reality show... Are you comfortable in front of the camera?
Have you turned down many media requests in recent years?
CF: "Yes, although from time to time I do answer positively. I choose my appearances very carefully. Above all, it's a lifestyle choice. My goal has always been to start a family and have time for myself, as I also have other passions in life."
In 2010, you published a book entitled Pâtisserie, which has since become a true classic of the genre...
Between 2010 and 2019, you formed part of a team of pastry reviewers for the Parisian supplement of Le Figaro newspaper, wasn't it hard to judge the work of some of your colleagues?
CF: "It's a totally subjective exercise which depends on many different criteria. I tried to be as objective as possible in everything I tasted."
At the same time, you also created recipes for Elle à Table magazine...
CF: "For twelve years, I produced a recipe from A to Z every month at the magazine's premises. It's been a real pleasure . It’s important to mention that this is something I did on a voluntary basis, without even asking to be reimbursed for my transport costs. Of course, I'm well aware that it was a great experience.”
CF: "In recent years, we've seen the emergence of numerous awards for the world's best pastry chefs, the criteria for which are not always fully understood and can create confusion in people's minds. On the other hand, I have enormous respect for the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (Best Craftsmen in France): it's a competition that deserves to be much more valued. I've been lucky enough to be a judge in some of the events, and you don't realize how incredibly difficult this competition is. Last but not least, there are plenty of very good pastry chefs who have never been in the spotlight, even though they serve excellent cakes on a daily basis."
How do you feel about the number of TV shows devoted to desserts over the last ten years?
CF: "It's great that patisserie is in vogue right now, but there's a big gap between what people see on TV and the reality. Before you can make cakes properly, you must first learn the basics of pastry-making by putting in the hours over several years. The job is also very demanding and tiring, requiring a lot of sacrifice. Anyone considering changing career path quickly realises that our profession is very difficult. As for me, I've been baking for forty years and I still learn things from time to time.”
How did you deal with the arrival of social networks, influencers and Instagrammers? Do you find it easy to accept criticism of your work?
CF: "In this day and age, it’s a must. I'm only on social networks to showcase my pastries. The day I stop making them, I'll certainly close my various accounts. I currently have over 120,000 followers on Instagram, but I’m not necessarily looking for more. As far as recipe videos are concerned, I've always refused to do them because I have no desire to get in front of the camera and I don't see the point. The only exception is the short videos I've shot for the Président brand, for which I'm currently an ambassador. As for Tik Tok, I’ve recently created an account, but I don't deal with it at all."